From the field

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Field notes and essays on the churches of Crete: their frescoes, painters, inscriptions and the people around them.

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Agios Stefanos. A small church with an enormous story inside

At the edge of an oak forest near Drakona stands a church so small that it would be easy to take it for an unremarkable roadside chapel. And yet, in its faded frescoes, a rare story of Saint Stephen, the first martyr of Christianity, has survived — together with a trace of a world in which Byzantine Crete met the West.

In the catalogue