From the field

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Field notes and essays on the churches of Crete: their frescoes, painters, inscriptions and the people around them.

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When Constantinople Fell, Crete Rose

On 29 May 1453, Constantinople fell. For many, it marked the end of the Byzantine world. For Crete, it became the beginning of an extraordinary age of artistic, intellectual and spiritual flourishing.

Τάματα. Application Forms to Heaven

In forgotten chapels of Crete, beside icons and candles, hang silver plaques, children’s shoes, crutches and walking sticks. These are not decorations. They are material traces of requests, fears, gratitude and hope — small application forms addressed to heaven.